Dog Clothing

If you have one of the smaller versions of our four-footed friends, for instance, a long-haired Pekinese, a Pug, a Toy Poodle, or even a firey spirited Chihuahua, you just might like to dress them up to be as cute as they can be. Trendy dog clothing and even classy dog apparel is the latest in pampering your precious pets.
  
Now a days you can search online for literally hundreds of web sites that offer doggy outfits for your furry friend. If you would rather go out shopping with your little doggie by your side, most of the major cities around America have Dog salons and boutiques where you can purchase the most up-to-date in poodle sweaters, little raincoats and other fabulous dog clothing. Recently, your pet-pampering salon where you have your dog bathed, cut and combed, is also starting to carry complete lines of doggie apparel.
 
Most of these boutiques carry items for any size dog that you have, but you have to admit that the smaller ones look the cutest! Dog clothing is catching on with the latest fashion trends for just about any breed.

Boutiques in New York are carrying hand knit silken sweaters, little leather jackets and rhinestone studded collars and covers. They are high quality, and their prices range from inexpensive to very expensive. It simply comes down to how much do you want to spend on your precious pet.
 
Chez Charles carries designer raincoats that are reversible using the finest in materials or others have a warm and classy red plaid flannel lining. Dog dresses and Retro shirts are great for your Pug puppy or Jack Russell, and if you really want to top off the outfit, try the latest in doggie hats! Doggie hats are stunning! They come in flannel or canvass, silk or satin and can sit on top of their heads with a string and a bow tie to hold them on. Or maybe a style that fits down allowing the ears to come through in a variety of matching fabrics and colors. If you can fit this little dressed ball of fur into a special should bag or purse, you can take them everywhere with you, dressed for fashion fun.
 
Classic and very chic fashion for dogs can be very extravagant, and since doggie clothes is an up and coming business, many are still experimenting in what to put on, and what and how to make it. What types of material that are the most comfortable for your pooch are being experimented with? And now with all the popularity, the latest trends are hitting the lines of dog apparel and fashion. Dressing up your dogs in sweaters and other outerwear is no longer associated with the weather. You can dress them up all the time and take them out on the town. They look so cute in their new duds that they will be the talk of the town. Have fun with your doggie dressing and enjoy making your pooch look as cute as can be.

Birthday Cake for Dogs

When your dog is really a member of the family, you cannot let his birthday pass by without some special fanfare. And since dogs are our best friends what better way to let them celebrate than with a dog birthday cake or a special dog birthday cake recipe. Yes, you can let him have his cake - and eat it too. It can even be nutritional and good for them, which is totally unlike anything we people get. We load up on the sugar and chocolate icing with all the candies on top and then wonder how in the world we gained five pounds. We don't want the dogs to gain weight because that is bad for them too. Here is a dog birthday cake recipe that will actually be good for your pet and he will just gobble it up and he/she will be a happy dog!
 
We all know that dog years count 7 years to our 1 year so they really get to celebrate! Below is a super Dog Birthday Cake recipe that you and your kids can make together to surprise your favorite poochie with. This is a versatile dog birthday cake, and one that you can adjust and fit to your own particular pet's preference. You can dress these up with your own special touches and even add some nutritional extras to make the dog birthday cake healthier. Here is a tip: by adding Vitamin E it will enrich their shine on their coat. Another is that calcium will strengthen their bones. Vitamins and minerals work the same with our pets as they do with us, so another tip is to add these supplements weekly into their food to keep them healthy year round.
 
Here a basic recipe:
 
1 ½ c. Flour
1 ½ tsp. Baking powder
¼ c. margarine
¼ c. oil
1 jar strained chicken, or beef baby food
(use shredded meat if you want, and add ½ c. milk)
1 c. shredded carrots or their favorite veggie
3 eggs
2 strips bacon
1 c. shredded cheddar cheese or use cottage cheese if your pooch prefers.
 
Mix flour and baking powder together; set aside. In large bowl, cream margarine until smooth. Add corn oil, baby food, eggs and carrots; mix until smooth, gradually add flour and baking powder to the mixture and blend. Pour batter into well-greased and floured 8 inch round pan. Bake in a preheated 325F oven 50-60 minutes. Take cake out of oven and add shredded cheddar and crumbled bacon bits to the top. Put back in oven for 10 minutes. When cheese is melted, take out and let cool on wire rack for a few minutes before removing from pan.
 
You can decide if you want to make this an extra special celebration for Fido, and add a scoop of his favorite ice cream. Remember he's just aged 7 years - he deserves it! Any liver snaps or rawhide bones are an added bonus.
 
Have a Happy Dog Birthday party! It really is a dog's life, isn't it?

Beautifying the Stripped Breeds

Most of the breeds that need their coats stripped are terriers, although all breed groups contain one or more that are wire-coated. Terriers, as well as many other breeds, have that kinked, wiry outer coat, also called a "broken" coat, familiar to the owners of Airedale terriers and Jack Russell terriers. This kind of coat requires a kind of grooming called "stripping". It can be done entirely by hand or by using a stripping knife.
 
Wirehaired breeds were developed primarily to "go to ground". That is, they primarily hunted their prey underground, in the prey animal's den. For that reason, these earth dogs: terriers, have ears that tilt forward and dense wiry coats. Both traits keep the dog free from the soil in which they work. These wiry coats should not be brushed and cut in the same manner as other kinds of coats, however. Instead, they should be hand stripped, a process in which the owner or groomer removes the hair by hand.
 
Schnauzers, the Bouvier de Flandres, some Dachshunds, Affenpinschers, and Spinone Italiano are all breeds from other groups that need hand stripping also have coats that need stripping. Mixed breeds with these dogs in their heritage also may need their coats to be hand stripped. Like the terriers, these breeds needed protective coats to meet the needs of the task that they were bred to do.
 
As you might guess, hand stripping is a time-consuming process that requires a great deal of practice. It is also an on-going process; you cannot hand strip your dog once and expect it to last for several weeks, the way that a clip might last. A wirehaired dog should be introduced to hand stripping at an early age, preferably while still a young puppy.
 
Hand stripping removes your dog's outer layer of guard hairs, creating a hard, glossy shield-like coat. Pulling the hairs out from the coats does not cause your dog any pain, since these hairs are already dead and do not grip the skin. Although breeds that are traditionally hand stripped can be clipped, doing so is not recommend, as it destroys the hard, protective characteristics these breeds are noted for. Even dogs who have previously been trimmed can be hand stripped as the new hair comes in, possibly rehabilitating their coats over time.
 
The stripping process can be done in two different ways: with a stripping knife or without. Either way is effective, although novices who use a stripping knife are in danger of cutting, rather than plucking, the dog's hair. Small clusters of guard hairs are plucked out revealing the undercoat beneath and allowing new guard hairs to grow in. If the dog's guard hairs are all the same length the stripping process might still result in a dog with a soft coat, since all of the guard hairs will be removed at the same time. When a dog has different lengths of guard hairs, due to the hairs maturing at different times, only a portion of the outer guard hairs are removed. This process, called "rolling" the coat, ensures that there will always be a hard outer layer of guard hairs.
 
Both you and your dog should be prepared for any grooming time that you spend together. Although the guard hairs are not tightly secured into the dog's skin, any attempt to rush through the stripping process can still result in some nasty pulls for your dog if you attempt to rush. Don't try to strip away the hair on your dog's muzzle or around his eyes if you do not feel comfortable doing so; you can use a pair of thinning shears to trim these small areas into shape.
 
You might be tempted to take your wirehaired dog to a groomer. If you do, please be careful. You should be certain that the groomer's idea of "stripping" matches your own--that groomer might consider stripping to be shaving, completely divesting your dog of his coat.
 
That would be a bad thing.

Best ways to make grooming a pleasant experience

Be Prepared: Preparation is not just for Boy Scouts. Neither you nor your dog will be able to relax and enjoy your time together if you are constantly getting up and down looking for one thing or another. Keep all of your grooming equipment in one place between uses, so that they are always on hand and so that you and your dog can focus on grooming.
 
Being prepared can also make grooming more pleasant for you, too. If you already know where everything is and can focus on the task of grooming, it can seem like less of a dreaded chore for you.
 
Playtime: Pet dog grooming does not always need to be as serious as grooming your dog for show. Playtime and grooming can easily be combined for many dogs. Puppies, especially, will like bath time more if a squeaky toy is part of the equation. Take a moment or two to reinforce good behavior by allowing your dog to play with a favorite toy at some point during the process or by tossing a favorite ball between grooming steps. Playtime should always be used as a reward, not a bribe.
 
Treats: If your dog is like many dogs, he will do most things when offered a treat. Puppies, especially, can more easily make connections when food treats are offered as reinforcement. Food is what is known as a "primary reinforcer", something that is pleasing on its own because of its own nature. Primary reinforcers differ from those things that are pleasing because of an associated factor, called secondary reinforcers. Because of this intrinsic pleasing effect, primary reinforcers can easily be used to make grooming more pleasant.
 
For puppies and dogs just being trained, treats should be offered frequently. In addition to using treats as a reward, it is also possible to use treats to induce a desired behavior from your dog. When, over time, the pleasant association of the treat and the behavior becomes fixed, resulting in fewer treats being offered. After training has been accomplished, treats can be used to reinforce good behavior.
 
Take Your Time: You should never try to rush your way through the grooming process. Your dog needs to be able to relax while being groomed, especially during the more difficult tasks that he might be asked to endure. Grooming consists of frequent, repetitive motions. You and your dog can either relax during these repetitive motions, or you can try to hurry through them. Rushing, however, may cause you to pull your dog's hair when brushing, or more cause you to quick your dog more frequently when cutting nails. Take your time and relax. Your dog will enjoy grooming more than if you rush through it and so will you.
 
Be Gentle: It should go without saying, but you should be gentle when grooming your dog. Harshly correcting your for any real or perceived poor behavior during grooming will find you chasing your dog down to be groomed, rather than having her greet you enthusiastically when you approach her carrying grooming tools. Several areas are particularly sensitive, just as they are in human beings. The areas behind her ears, in her armpits, and in her groin are all particularly sensitive if the hair there is pulled.
 
Work Within Your Ability: Unless you really are a professional groomer, you should not expect to work on the level of a professional groomer. Your Standard Poodle's trim will not look the same as that of the Poodle in the televised dog show, if you are the one doing the trimming. There is no fault in admitting that a particular hairdo is beyond your skills and relying on a professional to create that look, if that is what you desire. Working beyond your ability can create frustration and stress for both you and your dog.
 
Introduce Grooming while Young: Grooming should be introduced early in your dog's life. Even if all you do when your dog is a pup is brush her coat when it is necessary and cut her nails when you hear them clicking on the floor when she walks, you are creating a foundation for more advanced grooming later. However, the more grooming tasks that you introduce when your dog is a puppy, the more she will be able to relax and enjoy grooming process.
 
Introduce Unfamiliar Items Gradually: Unfamiliar things are scary things, especially to a very young dog. Introduce these scary things gradually, perhaps by placing the new grooming tool in the environment when you are working with familiar tools and moving them closer to your dog during subsequent grooming sessions. Gradually introducing these unfamiliar tools will prevent her from becoming alarmed by them and may prevent her from associating her alarm over a new grooming task with the now-familiar tool being used to perform it.
 
There is no reason why grooming your dog needs to be a chore. Take a few minutes to prepare, to relax, to take your time, and to reward your dog with play or treats and the grooming process will be more enjoyable for both you and your dog.

Boxer Dogs

Choosing boxer dogs for your family pet may or may not be a good thing to do. If you are wondering if this pet is right for you and your needs, take some time to carefully look at what he can offer. You may be surprised to find out that he fits right into your life. Or, if not, it is better that you know this now before you choose a pet that will not be happy with you (or you will not be happy with him!)
 
Here are some things that you will want to know about this breed of dog.
 
Exercise. The Boxer needs his exercise. This comes as both from physical exercise as well as being mentally challenged. Most dogs will need to spend time outdoors, walking and running and the Boxer is no different. In fact, you should plan at least a walk a day with your pet. As for mental challenge, your pet will need to learn tricks, play games and be taught how to behave. You should spend time doing these things if you plan to have a happy and healthy pet.
 
The Boxer can be temperamental when it comes to temperature. He likes to be in about 70 degree temperatures. He does not like cold weather nor does he tolerate extreme heat. If you plan to take him hunting, make sure that the temperature is right for him or he will not be agreeable.
 
They are playful and excitable animals. The Boxer is going to give you a run for your money. They enjoy playing and having fun. If you are looking for a serious dog, then this may not be the right pet for you. If you wan to have a fun loving pet, then you will love this personality.
 
Aggression is not something the Boxer has a lot of. He is a big dog and can be intimidating. And, if he is guarding his family, he most certainly will defend them. But, he is not really a guard dog. He is not going to be aggressive enough to handle guard duties. Most importantly, he really will not take on this type of training either.
 
For those pet owners with children, you will find that the Boxer is ideal to be with them. You will need to train the dog to listen and obey your commands. You will need to tell him what proper behavior with the children is as well. Most Boxers will cater to even small children in an effort to get them to play with him.
 
Finally, make sure that you have enough room for your dog. These dogs are large and can get up to 60 pounds or more. It is necessary, then, to provide for them the right amount of room to play and run.
 
The Boxer dog can be an ideal pet for many. But, if you can not provide for it all that it needs, then look for a dog that you can. You do not want to have a dog you can not take care of. Most individuals that have the likings for this type of dog will enjoy him.

Caring for Teeth, Toes, Ears, Face and other Areas

Some owners run a brush over their dog's coat and consider it groomed. The outside coat looks clean and smells clean, so there is nothing to dispute that view. But these owners, and the people who admire that "pretty dog", all ignore the other aspects of the dog that need to be considered.
 
A person who shows Border collies in conformation classes might tell you that a dog doesn't run on its coat. This apparently off-key comment simply means the dog's structure also needs to be considered, as does the movement and the temperament. The same holds true for grooming. A pretty coat of hair can only get the dog so far. Her teeth, ears, and feet also need attention to ensure the maximum health benefits.
 
Teeth
 
Your dog's teeth do not need brushing every day, particularly if she has access to plenty of teeth-cleaning chew toys. Natural bones, chew hooves, and hard plastic or rubber chews all help keep your dog's teeth clean. Some toys may even keep her gums massaged, preventing gingivitis. You should brush her teeth on a weekly basis, however.
 
It is possible for you to brush your dog's teeth on your own. Prepare your dog's toothbrush by placing a small amount of dog-specific tooth paste on either end of the brush. Position your dog in front of you. Grasp your dog's jaws and gently open her mouth. Leave one hand on her upper jaw, keeping light pressure on the lips at the back of her jaw. That light pressure should encourage her to keep her mouth open, although she may move her head from side to side.
 
Dogs tend to chew at the back of their mouths, so the chew toys you provided may already have loosened or removed tartar there. Begin brushing at the front of her mouth making certain to lightly massage her gums with the toothbrush. Do not press hard on the very small teeth at the front of her mouth, since they may loosen easily. At first, you may only be able to brush her front teeth and canine teeth. However, she should soon become accustomed to having her mouth handled.
 
Ears
 
Your dog may alert you to a problem with her ears when she starts rubbing at them with her paws or shaking her head. You may notice a foul odor coming from her ears, or she may flinch away when you touch her head. Even if you do not see these symptoms, however, you should inspect your dog's ears on a weekly basis for ear mites or an excess of ear wax.
 
Visual inspection will often reveal the presence of ear mites or excess wax. Ear mites leave debris that has the appearance of coffee grounds, usually appearing in the opening to the ear canal. Use a cotton ball to wipe the visible mites from the opening. Ear mites can be treated with medication prescribed by your vet or available over the counter at your pet supply store. Treatment may take several weeks to be effective.
 
As with mites, your dog can alert you to excessive ear wax by shaking her head. Your dog's ear might feel hot to the touch or produce the sound of moisture trapped in the ear canal, if gently massaged. Ear wax can often simply be wiped away; however, if accompanied by a foul odor, it may be the sign of an infection, signaling the need for a visit to the vet.
 
Dogs with pendulous ears, folded ears, and ears with a lot of feather-like "furnishings" are more prone to ear problems than dogs with prick ears free of extra hair. Some examples of breeds with these kinds of ears would be Basset hounds, Collies, and Papillons.
 
Feet
 
You should not hear your dog's nails tapping as she walks across a hard floor. If you have clipped your dog's nails on a regular basis, her nails should be clipped right at the area where the nail begins to "hook". If you have not clipped your dog's nails on a regular basis, be careful not to cut into her nail's blood supply, called the "quick". The quick is visible in light colored nails, but can be impossible to see in dark nails. It will "creep" toward the tip of the nail if the nail is not clipped. In that case, you will need to slowly cut small amounts off the nail, trying to force the quick back.
 
Some breeds require that the hair between their toes be trimmed to prevent matting. Mats that form between the toes or under the pads open your dog up to uncertain footing, sores, and even infections.
 
Most dogs will benefit from regular grooming of their teeth, ears, and feet, as well as from having their coats shampooed and brushed. Master teeth, ear, and foot care and you can help your dog lead a happier, healthier life.

Doggie First Aid: Grooming Emergencies

Sometimes accidents happen. Even though we know better, dogs have even drowned if left alone in a tub of water while someone answers the phone. Yet, no matter how careful you are, you and your dog can have a grooming emergency. Listed below are some of the things that can happen while grooming your dog, and some of the ways you can fix them when they happen--and some of the things that you can to do to keep them from happening at all!
 
Clippers
 
Electric or battery-powered clippers are powerful grooming tools. Even the tiniest clippers, designed to remove whiskers from show dogs' faces or from between dogs' pads, can cause some serious damage if misused.
 
Face: If you use the clippers on your dog's face, aim the clippers away from his eyes. If he moves, you may trim some extra fur from his muzzle, but that fur is replaceable. If the clipper blades come into contact with his cornea, they can leave a deep gash. Should that happen, prevent bright light from shining into your dog's eye and bring him directly to the vet. Many corneal scratches heal without a trace, but they should still be quickly dealt with.
 
Body: Use only the sharpest or newest blades to trim your dog's body whenever possible. Dull blades grab your dog's coat or leave clipper abrasions on his skin. Be careful, too, how long you use your clippers. Hot blades can leave a burn mark on your dog's skin, called "clipper burn". Neither of these things are life-threatening, although they may cause you trauma for causing harm to your dog. Cleans abrasions and burns with a gentle cleanser and rinse them thoroughly before applying a topical ointment suited to the wound. Watch the area carefully for any signs of infection. Serious wounds on your dog's body need immediate attention from your vet and may require stitches.
 
Paws: Your dog may move while you are cleaning hair from between his toes. As a result the clippers may cause an abrasion on, or cut into, your dog's pads. Because your dog's feet are always on the ground, they are probably going to get dirty. Stem any bleeding with a clean cloth or towel, then wrap it and bring your dog to the vet. He may need stitches or a boot to protect the wound, especially if it is a deep one.
 
Toenail Cutters
 
Your dog's toenails present a unique grooming problem. Unlike your toenails, which are flat sheets of keratin with a hidden blood supply, your dog's nails are living things with a blood supply down the center. You should know where this blood supply, called a "quick", is located before cutting. In addition, make certain that you use the correct tool for the job. If you have a small dog, use small scissor-type clippers, not large guillotine clippers that obscure your dog's nails. Keep a jar of styptic powder nearby when clipping your dog's nails, just in case accidents happen.
 
Scissors
 
Eyes and ears: never use a pair of pointed scissors to trim around your dog's ears and eyes if there is any chance that he will try to move away from you. Trim any hairs on your dog's face the same way that you trim with clippers, away from the eyes. Never trim inside your dog's ears with scissors, pointed or rounded. The tips of your scissors can pierce your dog's eardrums. Any grooming accidents that occur to your dog's ears and eyes need immediate veterinary attention.
 
Many accidents can happen when you are grooming your dogs. If they do, your dog may struggle, strike out with his paws or body, or may even try to bite you. If you can safely restrain your dog, do so, but do not put yourself at risk.
 
Grooming Tables
 
Your dog's ability to move around is one potential cause for accident or injury to you or to your dog. One simple manner in which to remove this cause is to purchase a grooming table. Grooming tables come in different heights and in different sizes. If you do purchase a table, make certain that you can stand by it comfortably for however long it will take you to groom your dog. The top of the table should be textured or have a rubber surface, to prevent slipping. You should purchase an adjustable grooming arm to restrain your dog on the table. Grooming arms clamp to the edge of your table, providing a place to secure your dog by way of a leash or grooming noose. If you secure your dog to a grooming table, save yourself some heartache and stay with your dog at all times when he is on it. Dogs have been known to hang themselves by jumping off of tables when they are left unattended. Just don/t do it.

Double coated breeds

It would be safe to say that the majority of dogs have some kind of undercoat beneath the guard hairs of their coats. Whether that layer of undercoat is fine and downy or thick and plush, those dogs are said to be "double-coated". Dogs from "single-coated" breeds typically have the durable guard hairs that are intended to protect the dog's skin from soil, but they lack the insulating undercoats that characterize the double-coated breeds.
 
Most of the herding and working breeds, as well as many of the sporting dogs have double coats. Such coats developed because of the purposes for which they were bred. Most double-coated dogs were intended to remain outside and work no matter what the weather. They were sheep and goat herders that endured rain and snow storms. Many were hunting dogs that retrieved game from water--although their land-based pointing cousins frequently had single coats to prevent them from getting tangled in brush.
 
For these reasons, the developers of these breeds bred dogs that create headaches for the pet owners of today. The insulating undercoat of the Alaskan Malamute or Rough Collie might keep a dog alive on the frozen tundra, or might blow away disappear on the breeze in the spring breezes of the Scottish Highlands. However, it is only a nuisance to people who need to sweep or vacuum up thick layers of dog hair daily. Some owners with such coats make the best of a bad situation by saving their dogs' shed coat and having it spun into yarn! With a little extra attention to the undercoat, however, your house can be relatively free of unwanted hair. Your dog will thank you for it, since he will be more comfortable as well!
 
As with short-coated dogs, your double-coated dog will benefit from regular bathing, brushing, and blow drying. Remember, any hair that is loosened and removed in the basic grooming process is that much less hair that enters your environment! But your double-coated dog needs more attention than a simple surface grooming can provide. Dead hairs must also be removed the undercoat that provides dogs with their insulation. One word of caution: do not shave your double-coated dog to "keep him cool for the summer". The hair that keeps the heat in, also keeps the heat out. Dogs shed the excess, unneeded hair during the warmer months.
 
Because of their special grooming needs, double-coated dogs may require some extra grooming tools to keep them looking their very best. Here are a few that can help both you and your dog be more comfortable, without putting too much of a drain on your wallet, time, and patience:
 
Stripping knife: most of the larger double-coated breeds will require two stripping knives. The fine-toothed stripping knife is best used on your dog's head and neck, while the medium or coarse variety is best to use on his body and tail. Carefully read the directions on the package, describing its use--the stripping knife might look like a comb but its teeth have sharp sides and are designed to cut hair. Practice the motion that you will use for grooming before touching knife to dog. It might sound easy to trap the hair between the teeth and your thumb and comb in an upward motion, but it can be a little trickier than it sounds!
 
Stripping rake: the stripping rake is a grooming tool designed to leave the guard hairs undisturbed while separating and thinning the undercoat beneath. The tool consists of a wide head with a number of widely-spaced teeth, mounted on a handle. The teeth may either be sharp and designed to cut the undercoat when matted, or smooth and designed to strip (pull out) loose undercoat hairs. If you can only choose one of these rakes for your grooming tools, the smooth-toothed variety may be the better choice. It allows you to maintain your dog's coat and prevent the kind of problem that the sharp-toothed variety is intended to correct.
 
Stripping stone: this "stone" is also known as pumice stone or "grooming stone". It is a light-weight breakable product that looks like a black sponge. A stripping stone used to remove the dead guard and undercoat hairs that brushing and raking leaves behind. This inexpensive product provides a similar finishing touch that a chamois cloth provides for other breeds.
 
Thinning shears: use thinning shears not only to smooth the lines of the dog's coat, as you might with other breeds, but also to remove some of the excess fur that may be causing your dog discomfort. Although double-coated breeds should never be shaved during the warmer months they may benefit greatly from having some of the bulk removed, especially when living in homes in which air conditioning is frequently in use.
 
There are many tools and grooming techniques that can both make your dog feel better and take excess hair out of your environment. Use these simple tools to start you on your way.!

Giving your dog a good treat

Food is the primary motivator for the majority of dogs. Therefore, food treats are excellent rewards for training, good behavior during grooming, and sometimes just for fun. If your dog is like most dogs, he will do much of what you ask, just for that nibble of food that you have in your pocket!
 
Your dog wants to please you because he loves you, you say? That might be true, but odds are that he loves you because you are his pack leader and food provider. Now that you know what he wants, don't disappoint him.
 
Your dog will try to eat anything you give him. He trusts you to give him what he needs, even if he does not necessarily like it. Conversely, you should familiarize yourself with treats that will be good for him and that taste good, too. Here are a few good treats, as well as a few that are "okay" just to get you started.
 
Good Treats
 
Dried liver: you can make your own dried liver treats by buying some beef liver with garlic powder and baking it in an oven set at 300 degrees. Your dog will love you for it--although you may need to burn some scented candles for a couple of hours to dispose of the liver aroma!
 
Baby carrots: sweet and crunchy, many dogs love these little taste treats. Although they are not good training treats because they are hard in texture and don't go down quickly, your dog will love them as a mid-afternoon snack. Unless they are puréed, your dog ingests no calories from baby carrots, since he cannot efficiently digest hard vegetables. This characteristic makes them excellent treats for overweight dogs.
 
Premium-quality commercial treats: these treats are usually found in bags or boxes in your pet supply store. Unlike grocery store treats, these premium-quality treats are made from natural ingredients and often have supplements added. One premium soft treat/Zuke's Hip Action Minis, for example, has glucosamine added for added joint protection during training. Soft treats like Zuke's Minis are better for training, since they require little chewing. Small hard treats, like Charlee Bear treats, are all right for training large dogs who do not need to chew them, but might be better for rewards for good grooming behavior or "just because". Your dog might also find freeze-dried treats to be appealing, but these may be a bit expensive for every day. Freeze-dried treats are usually made of chicken, liver, or beef. They range from light and crunchy to hard chews.
 
Hard-boiled eggs: hard-boiled eggs are a great occasional "just because" treat for your dog. Eggs are high in easily digestible protein and can help your dog develop a thick and shiny coat. You should give your dog eggs only on occasion because they are also high in fat and cholesterol, but in moderation they are excellent treats for your dog.
 
Not-So-Good Treats
 
Commercial dog treats: you know that warm and happy feeling you get when you bite into some fast food? Your favorite dessert? Those feelings are the same as the ones that your dog experiences when he gets these "junk food" treats. They might seem tasty and are made in fun and colorful shapes, but they offer no nutritional value. If you are unable to afford to give your dog any other treat, you will not harm him with these-; gain in moderation--but be aware there are better treats out there.
 
Words of Caution
 
Chocolate: a lot has been written on the hazards of feeding chocolate to dogs. It's not a good idea to share your chocolate bar with your dog. If you want to give him something like chocolate, get some carob-coated treats. It looks the same and contains no sugar. Your dog will like it just as much.
 
Grapes and Raisins: feeding your dog raisins can cause his kidneys to fail. If he manages to get a grape that is dropped on the floor, there is little reason to panic. However, even a few raisins can cause poisoning. Call your vet if your dog has eaten either grapes or raisins and appears lethargic, has diarrhea or vomiting, or urinates less frequently than usual.
 
Nuts: Most nuts are not suggested as treats for your dogs. Dogs can develop bladder stones if they are regularly fed nuts.
 
Onions: don't like those raw onions that someone put on your burger? Don't give them to your dog! Like all of the other foods mentioned here, onions contain a chemical that is toxic to dogs, even in relatively small amounts. Not every dog who eats onions (or even onion powder) will die, but it's best just to be safe and avoid giving them to your dog.
 
Many good treats are available on the market for your dog. Your dog can even share your food with you, if done with care. Just be careful and all of your dog's treats can be good treats.

Grooming by coat type

Over 400 breeds of dog exist world-wide. Between them, they have literally dozens of coat types, divided by length, hair type, and density. What coat type does your dog have?
 
Coat Length
 
There are three lengths of coat: long, short, and medium. Variation even exists in these categories, however. For example, both Shetland Sheepdogs and Maltese have long coats; however, the two breeds could not have grooming requirements that are more different. Even short-coated breeds can have different grooming requirements. The Labrador retriever and Miniature Pinscher are both shorthaired, but the first has a dense and oily coat, while the second coat is hard and close lying to the skin. Some dogs have coats between these two extremes. The Papillon, with its wavy coat and attractive frills on its ears, tail, and ruff, has a medium-length coat.
 
Hair Type
 
There are three types of specific hair types: straight, wire, and curly. Straight coats are perhaps the most familiar. The short-coated Labrador and the long-coated Rough Collie both have straight outer "guard hair" for their coats. Most terriers have "wire" coats. The outer guard hairs that are straight in other breeds are harsh and kinked. Some dogs bred to retrieve game from the water have curly coats. They can be soft or harsh, depending on the breed.
 
Coat Density
 
Coats are either single or double in density. Double coats consist of outer guard hairs, with an inner layer of undercoat. This undercoat can be fine or downy, thick or thin. Dogs with single coats have the outer guard hairs, but lack the inner layer of undercoat. Most breeds with single coats also have long hair. Many single-coated dogs, like the Maltese, were developed to be decorative, rather than functional. Dogs from warm climates, like the Afghan hound and the Saluki also have single coats.
 
Grooming for Coat Type
 
Different coat types have different grooming requirements. These requirements are briefly described here.
 
Short Coats: dogs with short straight coats offer the greatest ease of care, requiring occasional grooming with a slicker brush or a soft brush. However, those short-coated breeds with a dense undercoat will also require that undercoat to be thinned on occasion. Using a brush known as a rake or thinning knife to rid the dog from dead hairs in the undercoat will prevent mats from forming. If mats form underneath the guard hairs and remain for any length of time, sores and hair loss, known as "hot spots" can occur. Some dogs, such as Alaskan Malamutes and German Shepherds, have such copious undercoats that they require frequent, if not daily, grooming to prevent these mats from forming in sensitive areas.
 
Wire Coats: wire-coated dogs have unique grooming needs. Your immediate reaction when confronted with an unruly wire coat might be to shave or clip your dog's hair. Although clipping will make your dog look better, it will destroy the protective quality of this kind of coat. Wire coats are groomed by a process called "stripping" which is done by hand. Excess dead guard hairs are plucked from the dog’s coat. These hairs are loose and removing them does not cause the dog any pain.
 
Dogs with long coats require a lot of attention. Their coats must be groomed several times a week, if not daily, to ensure that they remain free of tangles and mats. Longhaired dogs with double coats require the same attention as double-coated shorthaired dogs. Because long coats are more efficient than short ones for hiding mats and tangles, it is imperative that they receive frequent attention.
 
Single-coated longhaired dogs have special grooming needs. Dogs with these kinds of coats, such as Afghan hounds and Maltese, should never be groomed when their coats are dry. Always be certain to spray your dog's coat with water or conditioner before brushing or combing to prevent the coat from being broken off or torn. Although mats and tangles are less frequent than in double-coated breeds, they do occur. Resist the urge to cut these mats and tangles from your dog's coat.
 
Special Coats
 
Corded Coats: corded coats are impossible to comb or brush. The "cords" that form this kind of coat are specialized mats. They create a weather-resistant shield in herding and some hunting breeds. Dogs with corded coats require occasional baths to keep their coats clean and fresh-smelling. Corded coats take hours to dry following each bath.
 
Don't forget, too, some dogs have no coats. The American Hairless terrier, the Peruvian Inca Orchid, and the Chinese Crested dogs are all examples of hairless dogs. Their skin must be maintained, just as other dogs' coats are groomed. They need regular baths and moisturizer for their skin. If these hairless dogs go outside, sun protection must be applied.
 
Different breeds have different grooming needs due to their coat types. Even mixed breeds have coats that conform to these types. Knowing more about your dog's coat type can help you with your regular grooming tasks.

Grooming Specialties

Not every groomer is a generalist; that is, not all of them work on many (or most) breeds in the dog world. Although you will find generalist groomers in pet supply stores, they are typically groomers who are just making a start toward their own careers. In their capacity as generalists, they learn to bathe dogs with all different kinds of coats. Typically, they learn one general kind of "pet" trim, fluffing the coat to make the dog look clean and attractive to the average eye. A generalist will clean ears, trim nails and might add a bow or bandana to give your dog a "finished" look. These groomers provide adequate services for maintaining your pet dog in a cut that might be reminiscent of that typical of her breed. They are not groomers for people who want their dogs in more specific cuts or trims. For such services, you will need to contact a specialist.
 
As groomers develop more skills, they may choose to specialize. They might decide to select a few similar breeds to concentrate on, such as Australian shepherds, Rough Collies, and Shetland sheepdogs. They might select a small group of similar breeds, such as spaniels, instead of focusing on their efforts on the entire sporting group of dogs. Or they might decide to work with all of the breeds in a particular group, such as the entire toy group from Affenpinscher to Yorkshire terrier. Some groomers divide their services between pet dogs and those being groomed for shows. Others might provide their services to rehabilitate the appearances of dogs at shelters. There are many ways for a groomer to specialize in his or her business.
 
Specializing by Breed
 
Some people learn to groom because they own a breed that needs specialized care. They might decide to purchase a poodle to keep as a pet or to show a Golden retriever. Over time they take interest in similar breeds, such as Flat-coated retrievers or Nova Scotia Duck Tolling retrievers. Based on the skills that they have gathered through experience, they open a small business that focuses on with these breeds. Over time, as friends, relatives, neighbors, and referrals are bringing in their similar dogs for grooming. Before they know it, they start to specialize in all retrievers, with the exception of, perhaps the curly- or smooth-coated breeds. Eventually, such groomers might take interest in learning about the other dogs in the group. Specialization in breeds might also evolve in the other direction. The groomer might start a business specializing in a particular group of dogs and eventually find that one breed takes over his or her time.
 
Pet or Show
 
As stated earlier, many groomers with general skills concentrate their efforts on pet grooming. As they grow in experience and knowledge, however, they might find themselves learning about grooming for exhibition, often learning from the professional dog handlers who are subject matter experts in their field. These groomers may eventually become "master" groomers, who possess the ability to prepare dozens of breeds for their time in the show ring.
 
Rehabilitation
 
These groomers are similar to those who specialize in pet dog grooming. They frequently use one kind of clip for each kind of coat type or length. Their expertise lies in other areas, however; they might be more knowledgeable in grooming dogs who are frightened or aggressive, due to abuse or neglect or an expert in bathing dogs using various shampoos that treat various conditions. Groomers who specialize in rehabilitation may treat dogs that enter veterinary care, are impounded in a shelter, or are offered to a rescue. At times, groomers specializing in rehabilitation work one or two days a week, on call, or from their own homes. This kind of grooming can be emotionally rewarding, but it is not as lucrative as other forms of specialty grooming services.
 
Considering a Job in Dog Grooming?
 
Dog grooming might seem glamorous, especially when show dogs "hair breeds" form the bulk of the clients. The truth is that dog grooming is hard work. Not every dog cooperates, struggling even when they are just being placed on the grooming table. Sometimes dogs will passively resist, urinate or defecate on the groomer, or try to bite or scratch the groomer.
 
Worst of all, resistant dogs might actually succeed in biting or scratching the groomer.
 
Some dog groomers provide general services, usually to pet owners. However, some groomers decide to continue growing in responsibilities and skills, taking on dogs that are exhibited in conformation shows. Many kinds of specialty dog grooming services exist. The specialists might focus their efforts on certain breeds, but all grooming businesses are demanding on groomers, especially physically. If you decide that you wish to become a dog groomer, take the time to investigate the career further, to determine if it is really for you.

How to choose the right groomer for your dog

If you feel less than capable of grooming your dog, that's fine! You're just like a large number of pet dog owners who take their dogs to groomers. Here are some suggestions on finding a good one.
 
Being right down the street from the best groomer in the world is not going to help you if you can't stand to be near her. Think of it: if the only thing that you think of when you go to that groomer's shop is how to get out as soon as possible, you can not expect yourself to take enough time to share everything she needs to know about your dog. However, personalities are not the most important thing in choosing a groomer. Other factors, such as schedules, experience, location, and grooming philosophy come into making the decision.
 
Schedule/availability: Groomers typically have three kinds of schedules, fixed, on call, and appointment only. If you work a nine-to-five job, a shop that's open from ten to four won't be right for you. If you can arrange to drop off your dog before going to work and pick him up after you get out of work, then someone who works from eight to six might. Groomers working with pet supply stores often offer drop off and pick up services.
 
If you can not find a groomer with a fixed schedule that meets your needs, you might need to find someone who works on an "on call" basis. Groomers who work on call sometimes work from mobile units, such as vans or trailers, which they may park outside your home and groom your dog inside. These groomers differ from groomers who work by appointment only. Those who work on an appointment-only basis frequently have their own shops with a long-standing established clientele and only occasionally take in new clients. Unlike the on-call groomer, you may have to accommodate the appointment-only groomer's schedule.
 
Experience: Every groomer comes with a different range of experience. Although length of time grooming is an important measure of your groomer's skills, it is not the only measure. If your prospective groomer is just breaking out on her own after a three-month course and six-month apprenticeship, you would be right to be cautious in letting her work on your dog; however, if she was previously a Junior Handler who apprenticed with a professional handler for ten years, then she may have skills that exceed those required for her certificate. Make certain that you evaluate your prospective groomer's experience on all levels before you make a decision.
 
Location: In addition to the schedule and experience, you need to decide what kind of location you prefer for your dog to be groomed in. As stated earlier, some groomers work from fixed locations, while others work from mobile units, and still others come to your home. Groomers who work from a fixed location have many tools of the trade at their fingertips at any time. They have more space to work in and perhaps an assistant to work with. However, although groomers working from mobile units have less space and may only be the sole pair of hands, they are not distracted by phone calls, incoming and outgoing clients, and other interruptions that come with working from a fixed location.
 
Alternatively, you may feel most comfortable with a groomer bringing equipment to your home to groom your dog. Some owners feel more secure knowing their dog is in familiar surroundings or prefer to have the ability to look in on the grooming process on occasion. This alternative might good for you if you are uncertain about how your dog will behave with a stranger grooming him for the first time.
 
Grooming philosophy: Before taking your dog to a groomer, make certain that her grooming philosophy is the same as yours. If you prefer cutting and trimming be kept to a minimum, or that your dog's coat be kept to a certain minimum length, don't hire a professional who wants to trim your dog to the skin and shape the coat as it grows out. The same thing can be said about differences of opinion over equipment, shampoos, and chemicals. If you don't want to have something used on your dog and she can't convince you of its benefits, choose someone else.
 
Dog's Opinion: When choosing your groomer, don't forget your dog. You might be pleased with her work, but your dog might consider the time he spends on her table as a lifetime in Dante's Purgatory. If your dog reluctantly approaches his groomer on a subsequent visit, snarls at her, or lunges to run out the door when you are ready to leave, their personalities--if nothing else, are not working together. If any or all of these things occur, please consider another groomer.
 
Selecting a groomer can be a prolonged process. It might take bringing your dog to several different groomers before settling on one that you're happy with.

How to prepare your dog for a dog show or a dog showmanship

Many of us have read dog stories in which the long-coated dog traipses to off-leash with his best human chum, chases woodland critters through the brush, is delivered to his handler the day before the show, and goes on to win best in show. Ain't gonna happen.
 
First, the handler would have apoplexy over the dog picking up a leaf in its coat, let along meandering through dirt. Then he or she would get down to repairing any damage that had been done to the fragile show coat, praying that it could still meet the standard of perfection. A dog with too many "holes" in its coat won't even make it out of the classes, let alone to the Best in Show ring.
 
About Dog Shows
 
Dog shows were originally intended to showcase the future breeding stock of the participating kennels, or to showcase the results of existing breeding programs. That is why many shows have Bred-by-Exhibitor group competitions, as well as Stud Dog and Brood Bitch classes. However, showing off the perfect coat of a well-conformed dog is part of showcasing the excellence of our dogs.
 
Standards
 
Dogs exhibited in shows must conform to a specifically-written standard describing a dog's appearance within a given breed. Both length and style of the dog's coat are determined by this "standard of perfection". Dogs with coats deviating from the standard can be faulted, excused, or disqualified, depending on the degree of the deviation.
 
Equipment
 
The owner of a pet quality Toy Fox Terrier can get away with a bottle of shampoo, a towel, a flea comb, and nail clippers as grooming equipment. Enter that dog in serious show competition, or even in Junior Handling or 4-H, and that equipment list balloons to mild shampoo, whitening shampoo, a towel, a flea comb, a stripping knife, a soft brush or chamois cloth, a whisker trimmer, fine-toothed thinning shears, a pair of straight-bladed scissors, and black or tan chalk. If the dog in question is a Collie, that list balloons again to include a blow dryer or crate dryer, steel combs and grooming rakes of various sizes, clippers with various widths and variety of teeth, Kolestrol or similar grooming cream, white chalk for the ruff and leg markings, a variety of thinning shears and other scissors. Many other items that have a function known only to the professional handler may rest in the depths of his or her "tack box".
 
The difference lies, of course, exists because it's not enough for the judge to see that the dog is clean and healthy. Rather, the judge must see that the dog has the right kind of coat for its breed presented in such a fashion that it emphasizes the dog's form and function. All the equipment the professional dog handler uses to groom a dog brings that dog's appearance as close to that standard as physically possible.
 
Preparation
 
Preparing a show dog starts with a bath. Unlike the pet dog owner, the show dog owner or handler keeps a variety of shampoos and conditioners on hand to meet the needs of the coat on that given day. Although many short-coated dogs are toweled dry, most long-coated dogs are slowly blown dry with a cage dryer or a dryer secured to a grooming table. As the dog dries, the show groomer carefully shapes and trims the coat to meet the requirements of the standard. Frequently, fractions of an inch are removed from the coat length, so that the dog's outline is perfectly smooth. At the same time, any imperfections are covered and a light coat of hair spray is possibly combed through to give the coat spring and texture. Some show dogs go through this process up to three times before the end of the show day: for the breed classes, for the group ring, and for best in show competition.
 
Maintenance
 
A large part of preparation for the show ring is maintenance. Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, and dogs with similar coats spend their show lives in wraps or rollers. Basset hounds and Afghan hounds have their ears loosely bound in snoods to keep them from drooping into their food. Poodles undergo intensive grooming between shows, often enduring up to two hours of grooming per leg in addition to the grooming tasks on a daily or rotating basis. Even short-coated dogs need frequent attention to maintain the quality of their coats.
 
Junior Handling
 
Dogs in Junior Handling classes are not themselves being judged. However, their condition and grooming is still essential. Good grooming is part of the criteria used for judging the knowledge and skill of the competing juniors.
 
Flaws
 
Some breeds are permitted to have coat imperfections. Terriers and some hounds and sporting dogs, for example, are permitted to have "honorable wounds" and scars. Grooming for show is a complicated business, but it can be rewarding when people tell you how amazing your dog looks, or when those ribbons start to pile up.
 
Even if she can't chase after woodland critters.

Making your Dog look Good

The first goal of grooming is to make your dog look good. When people see your dog they should immediately be able to tell that he is a happy, healthy, well-cared-for companion. Taking just an hour or two a week to care for your pet can ensure that not only will your dog look good, he will feel good too. Here are a few things that you can do to make your dog look good.
 
Keep Your Pet Clean
 
Like humans, dogs only get one chance to make a first impression. Your dog will make a better first impression if his coat is clean and shiny. Bathe your dog as frequently as he needs it, when he is dirty or has a "doggy" odor. Companion dogs who spend the majority of their time indoors may need a bath as infrequently as once or twice a month. Active dogs that spend a lot of time outside or dogs with skin conditions may need to be bathed more frequently.
 
If your dog has a dirty area on his coat but is otherwise clean, spot cleaning with a waterless shampoo can make your dog look good. Spray bottles of this invaluable cleaning aid are available at most pet supply stores.
 
Keep Your Pet Free from Debris
 
Any dog that goes outside will almost inevitably interact with plants. Even if you live in a desert, there are plants to be found. Burrs and seed pods--even pollen and flowers--can weave their way into your dog's coat, creating mats and tears. An otherwise well-cared-for dog can look like a stray if its ears or tail are matted with burrs or other debris.
 
Dealing with debris is not difficult if your dog has been trained to be groomed. Remove debris by spraying a solution of coat conditioner on the tangled area and let it soak in. Starting from the outside of the tangle, use the wide teeth on your steel comb to gently loosen the debris.
 
Exercise with Your Dog
 
Believe it or not, exercise is vital for making your dog look good. A fat or flabby dog is an unattractive dog. Yes, pudgy little puppies are adorable, but your Labrador should weigh 60 pounds, not 100 pounds. Your Chihuahua should probably weigh in at no more than 4 or 5 pounds.
 
The amount of exercise your dog requires depends a lot on his age and breed. A Border collie puppy will require far more exercise than an adult Rottweiler to satisfy his mental needs. However, that sedentary adult will require more scheduled activity than that puppy will in order to get thin or stay thin. Why? Because an older dog's metabolism has slowed from its puppyhood level. A sedentary dog has an even slower metabolism because it has adjusted to its slower pace over time. Even two half-hour-long walks or an hour-long romp in the yard is enough to keep most dogs in good condition. Herding or sporting breeds might need more and certain toy breeds may need less. Use your dog's exercise time to bond with him and to show him off. He looks great, so you both deserve it!
 
Feed Your Dog Well
 
Controlling your dog's food is a prime component to keeping your dog at his proper weight. However, food can do more than make your dog fat or thin. Food can also affect the texture and appearance of your dog's coat.
 
The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) and similar advisory committees in other countries have devised a recommended daily requirement for certain nutrients in dog food. Most pet food companies adhere to these requirements, although not all do. The AAFCO name or logo should appear on the bag from which you feed your dog.
 
In addition, the ingredients that go into your dog's food make a difference in how he appears. A dog who eats food that has its first three ingredients listed as corn or some similar carbohydrate will not be as healthy as those who eat foods that list fish or meat in those positions. In addition, the complete form of a meat is better than meat meals, digests, or byproducts. Try to be aware of your dog's nutrition needs outside of these basic standards. If your dog's coat is dry or oily or if his skin is flaking, he may need a different diet.
 
Have a Happy Dog
 
The best-looking dog is a happy dog. If your dog is clean, exercised, and fed right, then you are well on your way to having a good-looking dog. Challenge your dog by keeping his mind active by giving him toys and tasks to keep him occupied. A challenged dog is a happy dog. A happy dog is a good-looking dog and makes a darn good companion, too!

Mastering Bathing and Brushing

Bathing
 
In order to bathe your dog properly, you will need sufficient room to bathe him in. That concept may sound like an obvious one, but many people try to stuff their Mastiff into a wash tub in the backyard. If your dog feels as though he is in too small an area for comfort, he will try to escape. Conversely, you should not try to bathe your toy-sized in a large tub. Doing so may cause him to feel exposed and insecure, once again leading to escape attempts. Your dog should be able to move freely in the tub where he is being bathed and be able to see over the walls, but he should not have enough space to elude you if he feels threatened. Sometimes the best "tub" is no tub at all: large dogs can be bathed outside using a hose, while small dogs can be bathed in the kitchen sink.
 
Your dog must also feel secure with the surface under his feet. If the surface is smooth and slippery, giving your dog a towel or rubber shelf lining to stand on while being bathed may reassure him.
 
Make certain that the water is set at the proper temperature before you bathe your dog. Water that is too cool will not rinse the shampoo properly, leaving an oily residue on your dog's coat. Water that is too hot can burn him. If you feel comfortable with the water running over your skin, chances are that your dog will feel comfortable with that temperature as well. Fill the tub roughly to the height of your dog's ankles. If your dog has a collar on, remove it and ease your dog into the water. Soak your dog's coat with a spray hose or by pouring water over him, taking care not to get water into his eyes or ears. You can use a washcloth to clean his face if you feel more comfortable doing so.
 
Shampoo should never be placed directly onto your dog's coat. Pour a little into your cupped palm and spread it along the back of your dog's neck and along the spine to the tail. Gently massage the shampoo into your dog's coat. Pay attention to potential problem areas, such as his tail, the "pants" under the tail, the hair along his belly, and his ruff.
 
Leave the shampoo in your dog's coat for as long as required by the directions on the bottle. Regular shampoos can be rinsed immediately; however, medicated shampoos may need to be left in the coat for anywhere from two to five minutes or more. Rinse your dog, making certain that the rinse water from his coat runs clear before you stop. Repeat or apply conditioner as needed.
 
Remove your dog from the tub. Dogs with long coats may need to be patted dry to prevent tangles. Those with long coats may appreciate being massaged dry. If your dog has a long coat or one that is styled in a particular cut, you many need to blow dry it. If that is the case, begin with the hair dryer set on low. Make certain the hair dryer remains in motion while it is aimed at your dog; you do not want to burn his hair or his skin.
 
Brushing
 
It is not difficult to master brushing if your dog has been trained to be groomed. If your dog is willing to sit or lie in one position for even a little while, brushing is a piece of cake.
 
Begin brushing your dog from his head, working your way toward his tail. Use a soft brush, face cloth, or chamois cloth to clean his face and put the stray hairs into place. Brush behind his ear leathers, making certain to get the brush into the little ridge behind his ears, to loosen any dead hair, soil, or parasites that hide there.
 
If your dog is wearing a collar, remove it. Use a slightly stiffer brush on the coat on your dog's body. If he has a long coat, make certain that you dampen his coat before you brush it. Brushing long coats, particularly single coats, when dry can break or tear the guard hairs. Groom in the direction of the hair, gently working through any tangles. Use a wide-toothed steel comb to loosen the tangles, if needed. Finally, use a soft brush on the dog's legs and feet, inspecting them for any sign of debris being caught in the hair between his toes. If your dog is lying on his side during grooming, turn him over and start again from the front of his body.
 
It is not difficult to master bathing and brushing your dog. Work slowly and give your dog reassurance through each step if he needs it. With patience, and with practice, you will master the tasks of bathing and brushing your dog.

Prepare your dog for a special walk-out

Dogs are playing an increasingly large part in our modern lives. No longer merely workers or hunting companions, our dogs accompany us to many previously forbidden places and events. Some communities set aside special parks for dogs to play in, making fields, lawns, rivers or ponds, or even agility equipment available to members of the community. A note on dog parks: although many people enjoy bringing their dogs to dog parks, make certain that they are safe for your dog. Small dogs are at risk when off-leash with larger dogs. Large dogs can create risks for both small dogs and people if they are aggressive or out of control.
 
Fun Matches: Some dog shows are not just for show dogs. If you want to have a good time with your dog, consider entering a fun match. These matches are not only operated to give future show dogs a chance to hone their skills; some clubs that sponsor these matches also include the general public in the fun. Pets might be judged on best condition, best matching dog and owner, or best group costume. Some breeds seem to lend themselves to certain roles; for example, at one match show one owner and her Bedlington terriers appeared as Little Bo Peep and her sheep!
 
Restaurants: Although there is still a health code in place that protects people from animals contaminating food, some restaurants are providing extra seating for their patrons who have dogs. Many of these restaurants provide courtyard or sidewalk seating and even create special food dishes and menu selections for their canine diners.
 
Other cafes provide the opposite services, serving and entertaining primarily canine diners. These eating establishments often cater birthday parties and sponsor "cocktail" hours. Although semi-formal dress is not required, some owners like to provide the extra-special collar, bandana, or hair bows for such occasions.
 
Parties and Events: Some people treat their pets like they would treat their children. For that reason, doggy birthday parties and special events are becoming more common. If giving your dog a birthday party seems like a good idea, then consider providing specially-made dog birthday cake and treats. If you don't feel like making it yourself, specialty shops such as Three Dog Bakery have reasonably priced birthday cakes and cupcakes made of unbleached flour, whey, eggs, and carob. Round out the treats with some frozen doggy "ice cream" from your local grocery store and you're set for refreshments! Sprinkle your dog's coat with some non-toxic glitter available from grooming supply stores or provide the birthday dog with a special t-shirt or costume to make her day complete.
 
Include Your Pet in Your Special Event: Make your special day complete by adding your dog. Some couples include their dogs as part of their wedding, using them as attendants, flower girls, or ring bearers. Although you may be asked to have your ceremony outside in order to include your dog, many members of the clergy will happily officiate at a ceremony that includes her as one of the wedding party. Formal attire designed for pets is not difficult to find, although patterns are also available if you prefer that your dog's formalwear exactly matches that of the other wedding party members.
 
Mardi Gras!: Most Louisiana parishes forbid dogs from attending regular Mardi Gras parades. However, a large number of cities are now issuing permits for special canine Mardi Gras marching clubs. In New Orleans, two canine marching clubs, known as "krewes" are licensed annually. The best known club, the Mystic Krewe of Barkus (a play on the name: Bacchus), selects its queen from the dogs in the local Humane Society. All other members of the annual krewe "royalty" come from the general public, based on donations.
 
Even if you choose not to make a large enough donation for your dog to become a member of royalty, your dog can still participate in Mardi Gras. Regular krewe memberships are usually available for under $50 and usually permit one human escort per dog admittance to the parade. Mardi Gras costumes for both human and dog alike are frequently outrageous. If you don't feel skillful enough to create your own costumes for a parade, a pair of matching Mardi Gras boas can be used to great effect.
 
As with anything that you do with your dog, you should be certain that your dog is both physically and mentally prepared. Dogs that march in parades should be conditioned for walking long distances, especially little dogs who may not be used to long walks. They should also be mentally prepared, socialized, so that they are not afraid of or aggressive toward other dogs or intimidated by any crowds that form along the route. Finally, dogs should also be given at least a minimum of obedience training before going into a parade situation. Although your dog should not be expected to walk at heel during the entire even, knowing that your dog will at least sit, down, stay, come when called, and walk on a loose leash will make your participation more enjoyable.

Preparing your dog for grooming

Many dogs are never groomed. They live their lives in unbathed, unbrushed ignorance, while their owners wonder why their dog smells or has fleas. If you have purchased your puppy from a breeder, he may be one of those lucky dogs familiar with bathing, brushing, and other aspects of good grooming.
 
If your dog is from a shelter or from the home of another pet lover, he might not be so lucky. If your dog runs away when you are holding a brush or towel, don't jump to the conclusion that he has been abused. It is possible that he has never seen either one before! Much of your frustration can be dealt with by proper training. However, your dog needs to be prepared, both mentally and physically, before he can be groomed. Some dogs allow themselves to be groomed right from the moment they go home. Others are forever fearful, necessitating monthly visits to the vet to be anesthetized for nail clipping. It doesn't take much to see which would be the better pet.
 
Mental Preparation
 
Do not groom a fearful dog. Grooming a fearful dog will only lead to more fear and may even lead to aggression. There is a legitimate psychological treatment for human beings called "flooding". A fearful individual is exposed to whatever creates the fear, usually in great amounts. The logic behind this treatment is that it faces the individual to face his or her fear and acclimatizes him or her to the stressor. This treatment is valid in human beings, because we can reason in a logical fashion. Although some professional dog trainers may use flooding, in the hands of an untrained pet owner it is tantamount to animal abuse. A far better dog-training tactic is to gradually accustom your dog to the presence of these items, allowing him to overcome his fear of them.
 
In order for your dog to overcome his fear, he must associate these things with positive events. In order to accustom your dog to a towel, for example, you might want to feed him with a towel under his food bowl. Put a towel in his bed or on your couch for him to lie on, so that he can become familiar with its texture. If you need to, let him watch you dry your dishes, or, better yet yourself to let him know that a towel is not a harmful "creature". The more your do sees a towel being used, sees the way it moves, and hears the noises it makes in use, then the more comfortable he will be with having one used on him. Similar tactics can be used to familiarize your dog with a brush.
 
You must also establish trust with your dog. We want our pets to trust us as soon as we bring them home. Unfortunately, your dog sees you as a stranger. Some dogs are able to form an immediate bond with their new owners. If you are not the owner of this kind of lucky dog, then you need to take things slowly. Move cautiously around your new dog. Do not make any startling sounds or movements. Never bend over to pet a fearful dog; always crouch or kneel so that you are less threatening. Allow your dog to make the first move, if necessary, so that he feels comfortable coming to you for petting or reassurance.
 
It is very tempting to declare yourself the "pack leader" and force yourself upon your dog, but just don't do it. Unless it is absolutely necessary to force your attention on your fearful dog, such as the need to give him medication or to prevent him from hurting himself, then give your dog the time he needs to adjust to his new life before grooming him.
 
Physical Preparation
 
Once your dog is familiar with all these things, you can prepare him with some pre-grooming. Pre-grooming consists of all the routine tasks that come with owning a dog. Rub your dog down with a towel if he gets wet outside, to prevent unseen mats from forming. Use your fingers to detangle a stray knot or two from a long coat, since knots always tighten in a wet coat. Remove obvious debris from the coat, to keep it from becoming entwined and causing sores or "hot spots".
 
Your short-coated dog may enjoy pre-grooming in the form of a "grooming glove", since it is so similar to petting. A grooming glove is used to loosen dead hairs from his coat. Grooming gloves, usually canvas gloves inset with little plastic or rubber nubs, also have the added benefit of polishing the dog's coat.
 
Not all dogs are familiar with grooming. Preparing your dog for grooming can help even a fearful dog enjoy what might otherwise be an arduous and frustrating task.

Preparing yourself for grooming

Preparing yourself is an important of grooming. When you prepare yourself in addition to preparing your dog, your grooming session can almost always be counted on to go smoothly. If unprepared, grooming frequently goes poorly, resulting in frustration for both you and your dog.
 
Preparing yourself for grooming has several parts. You should have the proper supplies on hand, sufficient knowledge, and sufficient time before you begin to groom your dog.
 
Basic Supplies
 
Many people can get by with a few basic grooming supplies. The most basic supplies are a dog-specific toothbrush and toothpaste, dog-specific shampoo and a towel, a soft brush, cotton balls, nail clippers, and styptic powder.
 
Dog-specific Toothbrush: a dog-specific toothbrush usually has two bristled heads, one at either end of the brush. One head is larger than the other, to accommodate different breeds. The smaller brush head can also be used to reach the back teeth on large-breed dogs.
 
Dog-specific Toothpaste: this toothpaste comes in various flavors, including chicken, beef, and mint. Never use your toothpaste to brush your dog's teeth. The foaming agents and some of the chemicals in your toothpaste will make your dog feel uncomfortable and may make him ill.
 
Dog-specific Shampoo: many good dog-specific shampoos are available. A mild shampoo is sufficient for day-to-day grooming. Many shampoos are designed for specific coat colors and types, skin types, and medical conditions. Ignore them, although you may need one or more of them later for special grooming events. You might consider buying flea shampoo as well, if you do not use topical flea treatments. Human-specific baby shampoo can be used on your dog, but it is not recommended for regular grooming.
 
Towels: If you don't mind sharing towels with your dog, feel free! However, it might be simpler to have towels for grooming that can be washed and returned to your grooming supply storage area, so clean towels will be at hand for bath times. Large towels without a deep pile are good for grooming your dog and less likely to retain dog hair after washing.
 
Soft brush: a soft brush can be used to groom your dog's face, legs, and feet without discomfort. This kind of brush polishes your dog's coat. It is not good for detangling long coats.
 
Cotton balls: use cotton balls to clean your dog's outer ear canals. The lowly cotton ball can also be used to apply treatments to your dog's face or teeth or even to separate your dog's toes for polishing nails (if you're so inclined). Keep plenty on hand!
 
Nail clippers: many styles of nail clippers are available. For small breeds, scissors-type clippers may be best to prevent unfortunate accidents. Guillotine-style and pliers-style clippers are appropriate for larger breeds as they require less effort to cut through thicker nails. Nail grinding tools are also available, are only recommended for experienced groomers.
 
Styptic powder: styptic powder is used to seal the nail when the owner has cut into the "quick" causing the dog to bleed.
 
Other Grooming Supplies
 
If you have a dog with a long coat, you will need additional basic grooming supplies:
 
Spray bottle: long coats should never be brushed or combed while wet. Use your spray bottle to moisten the dog's coat if brushing between baths. Fill the spray bottle with plain water or a solution of water and conditioner.
 
Slicker brush or pin brush: these brushes are used to separate matted hair or to remove dead undercoat.
 
Steel comb: several sizes of steel comb are available. Depending on your dog's breed, you might want to have more than one size on hand. These combs should be used to detangle coats in most situations.
 
Scissors: long coats can develop tangles and mats. Burrs and other debris can become embedded in the dog's coat. Two kinds of scissors will address these problems. You should have one pair of medium-sized blunt-tipped scissors to deal with larger clumps of hair. The other pair should be smaller with a pointed tip, to get between toes or to take care of smaller bits of hair. Scissors should be used sparingly because coat takes a while to grow back.
 
Knowledge
 
Prepare yourself for grooming by gathering sufficient knowledge. Even if you know how to give a bath or how to clip nails, learn the details. Familiarize yourself with any warnings that are printed on grooming product labels.
 
Time
 
Set aside sufficient time so that both you and your dog can relax during the grooming process. Try to set aside about an hour for less complex grooming jobs, particularly if you have a long-coated dog. Set aside two hours for grooming and bathing. If you can do it all in less time, that's great! Just remember, take time to relax and pet and praise your dog, ensuring that both of you will treasure your time together.

Removing Sticky and Stinky Stuff Out

Your dog loves your child and your child loves your dog. One day they decide to "share" some chewing gum, which ends up in the vicinity of the small of her back. Yuck! Your dog loves to run in your fenced yard. One day she discovers the pile of pellets a rabbit left behind. When you let her in you are greeted with the aroma of "Eau du Bunny". Euuuwwwww. The truth is, our dogs surprise us with more grooming challenges than we ever might have thought of when we saw that tiny little puppy face gazing winsomely in our direction. What do you do when faced with these things?
 
First of all, don't panic. Almost anything can be undone, with just the right kind of attention. Whether your dog has a short, hard, glossy coat or a long and wispy hairdo, you should be able to remove all but the most firmly lodged debris.
 
Sticky Stuff
 
Sticky stuff can ranged from debris that gets lodged in your dog's coat due to grasping edges, like burrs, to things like chewing gum or tar. Sticky stuff is easiest to remove when it is still soft or wet, or before it has gotten deeply entwined into the pile of his coat.
 
Chewing gum: recommendations for removing chewing gum from dog coats are similar to those for removing it from human hair. Use ice to freeze chewing gum on short coats and peel it off. Several applications of ice might be necessary. Use an oil-based natural product, such as peanut butter, butter, or mayonnaise to loosen the hair from the chewing gum. It should come out with just a little coaxing.
 
Paint: Latex wall paint is the easiest paint to remove. Water-based latex should come free with the application of warm water. If necessary, use your dog's regular shampoo to remove the paint residue from his coat. Do not allow your dog to lick or chew any areas that have been contaminated by paint. If you can not remove pigment left behind in the coat by paint, then cut the affected hair away and bathe the area to be certain that no residue remains. Oil-based paints can not be safely removed from your dog's coat except by cutting it out. Do not use any solvent, turpentine, or any other chemical on your dog. You may poison him if you do so.
 
Tangled debris: use baby oil or other mineral oil to help loosen the grip that the hair has on the debris. Gently rub the fur back and forth on the tangle with one thumb and forefinger, while picking the loosened hairs free with your other hand. If you absolutely must, use a mat splitter, a grooming knife, or a pair of scissors to cut into the mat caused by the debris, cutting along, not across, the hair. Try to preserve as much of your dog's coat as possible, if you must do any cutting.
 
Tar: petroleum jelly is an effective softening agent for both tar and pine sap. Once these sticky items have been softened, they can easily be washed away with a gentle shampoo.
 
Most sticky things can be removed from your dog's coat if you first soften them or lubricate the coat hairs that are holding them in place. Always use a safe, non-toxic, non-flammable product to loosen the bond between the sticky item and your dog's coat. Once loosened or softened, most sticky items can easily be peeled away or washed away using a mild shampoo.
 
Stinky Things
 
Many stinky things are fairly easy to remove. The main problem with these things is that they smell so bad. If your dog is just slightly smelly and you don't want to give him a bath, freshen him with a "dry shampoo" by sprinkling baking soda in his coat and giving him a vigorous brushing to remove the excess powder. If you want to spend $10 or more per bottle, you can purchase a waterless shampoo containing whiteners or a conditioner from your pet supply store, instead of using baking soda.
 
The tried and true method for removing skunk odor is still the best. Apply tomato juice or canned tomatoes directly to your dog's coat and massage the solution into the fur. Rinse his coat thoroughly and use a gentle shampoo if needed.
 
For other odiferous things that go into your dog's fur, a simple bath may be all that's needed. If the bath does not completely remove the odor, then rub some baby powder or baking soda into the fur and vigorously brush it out. You may also use some baby wipes to freshen your dog without bathing.
 
If your dog has a persistent foul odor coming from his skin, from his head, or from his rump, he might have an allergy, an infection, or impacted anal glands. A trip to the vet for a diagnosis is in order.

Shaping up the Clipped Breeds

The coats of shorthaired dogs can tolerate being groomed as infrequently as once or twice a month and still look good. The coats of longhaired dogs can get by with once or twice a week. The coats of clipped breeds, however, should be given attention at least every other day--and preferably daily--to remain looking good.
 
If that sounds like a lot of work, well, it is. Fortunately, giving your dog's coat daily attention takes a great deal of work out of the equation. Huh? Well, by spending a few minutes on a daily basis on your dogs' coat, you won't need to spend several hours at a time trying to repair damage and trying to restore the coat's shape. After all, most of us trim our pets in fancy clips because they look nice, not because they are going to leap into icy-cold water to retrieve a duck. Although other clipped breeds are still counted in the Sporting Group, the Bichon Frisa and the Poodle both keep clipped dogs in the role of companion and fashion accessories for most people. And no one really likes a tatty fashion accessory, do they?
 
It is not incumbent upon you, as a pet owner, to learn all of the ins and outs of clipping your dog. You do not have to by a trimmer with all of the nifty accessories to keep the shaved parts of your dog looking clean. You do not need to buy all of the tools that professional dog handlers or professional groomers use to create the confection of coat that is a Continental cut--or even to reproduce the more sedate cousin, the lion trim used on other breeds, like the Portuguese Water Spaniel and the Lawchen.
 
What you can do, however, is learn the very basic upkeep that will keep your dog looking stylish until you take him to the groomer for his next trim. To do so, you should learn the basic shape of your dog's trim, how to comb and how to use the scissors. Beyond that, let your groomer do the work!
 
Bathing
 
Poodles should be bathed using the same technique as any other dog. However, due to the nature of your dog's coat, you must be careful to rinse away every trace of shampoo and conditioner. Towel your dog to remove much of the excess moisture from his coat. Use a blow dryer to remove the rest of the moisture, using a pin brush to lift the coat away from the skin as it dries, shaping it into that rounded form over his head, shoulders, and rump. If you have a Bichon, use the same technique all over his body.
 
Trimming on the Curve
 
No, we're not talking about grading here. But it is important to remember that virtually all trimmed breeds have a smoothly curved outline. Unlike setters, which have points and angles in their coats, most trims present a rounded form. There are no angles on a Poodle or a Bichon Frisa!
 
After your dog's coat is dry, you should use a long, narrow metal comb and a pair of long-bladed scissors to trim the uneven bits from your dog's coat. Use your comb to bring the coat up and away from your dog's skin, just as you did while brushing. Hold your scissors at an angle to the coat, pointing upward. Lightly and quickly snip away the very tips of the fur. Take away as little fur as possible with each snip. Your object is to even the edges out and it is easier to remove a little more than it is to glue it back on again. Avoid using scissors with short blades; longer blades will make it easier to smooth the edges of the scissor marks.
  
Trimming the Face, Feet, and Tail Base
 
If you feel extremely confident in your skills, then you can use a small electric or battery-operated trimmer to keep these areas from getting shaggy. If your trimmer gives you a choice of blades, use a #10 or #15 blade. Always be certain to use a sharp blade; using a dull blade will pull your dog's coat from his skin rather than trimming it. If you don't feel comfortable using a trimmer, not to worry. Keep things neat by using your scissors taking care to avoid your dog's eyes and let your groomer trim the fur down on your next visit.
 
Some Things to Remember

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Skinny on Hairy Health Issues

A good part or your dog's healthy coat comes from care and feeding. A well-cared-for dog with a good diet will have a bright, shiny coat with natural resilience. Sometimes, despite receiving excellent care, your dog's coat might not look its best. Her skin might be flaky, giving her dandruff. She might have bare spots caused by parasites or allergies. Many reasons exist for a dog's coat to be imperfect. Some of them can't be corrected by simple grooming.
 
Parasites
 
Fleas and flea allergies: With all the products on the market, most people effectively protect their dogs from fleas. However, sometimes parasites can take us by surprise. When Carnelian the Doberman moved from Connecticut to Georgia one December day, only a week after arriving he was naked from his hips to the tip of his tail! His front end still supported healthy mahogany fur, leading his owner to think immediately of parasites, even though he'd had his usual flea bath, followed a new flea collar before they moved.
 
Carnelian had flea allergy dermatitis. Fleas were never a problem in Connecticut during the winter, so the flea bath and collar provided sufficient protection. His flea collar was actually working. The fleas simply moved beyond its sphere of influence. Carnelian was not only unused to the quantity of the fleas present in the mild Southern winters, he was also having a strong reaction to their saliva, causing itching and raising pustules on his body. Bathing soothed the itching and applying topical flea prevention prevented the problem from getting worse. Carnelian quickly regained his coat. If your dog has unexplained bumps on his skin or suddenly seems to be chewing even though you don't see evidence of flea dirt, she might be suffering from flea allergy dermatitis.
 
Ticks: Ticks are blood-sucking parasites, often harbored in tall grass and in foliage. These parasites can carry disease, such as Lyme disease. They can also carry eggs of other parasites. Fortunately, ticks are easily controlled by application of a topical tick preventative and by inspecting your dog for evidence of ticks when she comes in from outside. To remove a tick, grasp it firmly with a pair of tweezers and pull straight back from your dog's body. Twisting the tick will kill it, but will also leave its head buried in your dog's body.
 
Mange: Mange is caused by mites. Different kinds of mange exist. Sarcoptic mange mites are carried from animal to animal through direct contact. The parasites that cause sarcoptic mange typically live beneath their hosts' skin for their entire lives. When these parasites burrow, they cause severe irritation under your dog's skin, so she will bite, scratch, and chew at the affected areas causing sores and scabs all over her body. Sarcoptic mange is easily treated with topical and oral/injected medications if caught early. Demodectic mange is a less disfiguring variety of mange caused by a different kind of mange mite, usually passed from mother to puppy. Demodex primarily affects juvenile dogs. Flare-ups of demodectic mange are frequently caused by stress, although what causes some dogs to be affected while others in the same household remain unaffected is not known. Dogs may recover without treatment from mild infestations of this parasite; however, others are severely affected and may require prolonged treatment to recover.
 
Tapeworms, Hookworms, and Roundworms: Internal parasites usually infest your dog through insect bites or stool eating. These parasites lodge themselves in your dog's intestine, absorbing the nutrients her body requires to fuel itself. Your dog's condition can suffer, as can her general health. If your dog's coat is dry, dull, and brittle or if she scoots her rear across the floor, take her to the vet to have her stools microscopically examined.
 
Allergies
 
Dry coats, dandruff, excessive shedding and sores can result from allergies. If your dog is free of parasites, you might want to investigate the possibility that she has allergies. Some dogs have allergies to grass or to certain household cleaners and detergents. Other dogs have food allergies to wheat, corn, or certain processed proteins like beef or soy. Your vet can refer you to a specialist, who can determine what allergens are causing your dog to react.
 
Dietary Deficiencies and Genetic Causes
 
Sometimes dogs simply lack the inability to absorb the nutrients in their foods. Other dogs may have genetic conditions that cause skin inflammation or the inability of the skin to support the coat. A condition called "sebaceous adenitis" actually destroys the sebaceous glands that produce the necessary moisturizing for the skin and coat to be maintained.
 
If your dog has a condition that prevents her from having a healthy coat, then look for simple things that might be causing a problem first. If you've change laundry detergents, for example that you use to wash her bedding, or if the formulation of her food has changed, those simple things may cause a problem. If you can not find a simple solution, your vet may have the answer that you need.

Spiffing up short - and medium coated breeds

Your short-coated dog is a breeze to take care of, at least most of the time. Except for the occasional bath and a good rub with a towel, she is practically maintenance free! Even so, those short dog hairs all over your couch can be really annoying. Is there any way to deal with them?
 
Yes! There are several solutions to those little hairs. Spiffing up your short- or medium-coated dog only requires a few minutes and is well worth the extra time spent.
 
You should already be familiar with the basics of bathing your dog. Shampoo, rinse, repeat. Easy enough. But did you know that even short-coated dogs can use the occasional application of conditioner? Constant baths without conditioner can leave your dog's coat dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. Go to your pet supply store and find a conditioner or two that you can live with. Know your ingredients before you go. For example, oatmeal-based shampoos and conditioners are gentle, but dry the dog's skin. Don't worry about medicated products at this time, unless your dog has a pre-existing skin condition. The conditioner you want is specifically for dry coats. The next time you bathe your dog, apply the recommended amount by pouring it first into your hand and smoothing it down your dog's spine. Rub it in and let it sit for at least a minute before rinsing thoroughly.
 
Blow dryer/crate dryer: instead of simply towel drying your dog, blow dry her. Although a crate dryer is better because it always stays at a consistent distance from your dog, lessening the possibility of burning your dog, the same blow dryer that you use on your own hair is fine. If you use your own blow dryer on your dog, have her sit or stand on a towel to be dried. Set the dryer on low and aim it no closer than eight to twelve inches from her skin. Aim the dryer in the opposite direction from the lie of the coat while brushing the coat flat. This process should remove many of the dead hairs that she would otherwise leave behind on your couch. Your previously hair-free towel should attest to that!
 
Stripping comb: a stripping comb can be your friend. Twice a year, your dog will shed all of the fur in her coat. You will want to keep as much of that coat off of your furniture as possible, while enhancing your dog's appearance. A stripper comb will do just that for both of you. A fine-tooth stripper comb is best for many short- or medium-coated dogs.
 
Before you begin to use your comb, read the directions for its use. Comb gently along the grain of your dog's coat, paying particular attention to where excess coat tends to gather behind the ears, along the spine and at the base of the tail. Medium-coated dogs also collect hair under their tails on the "pants" or "skirts" on the back of the legs. If you choose to use a stripper comb on your medium-coated dog, be careful not to use it so vigorously that you chop off a large portion of her coat. The idea is simply to remove loose hair that is both a nuisance and that can make your dog look unkempt.
 
Chamois: You know that a soft brush can be used for smoothing and polishing the coat. The chamois cloth does the same thing, only it does not leave any brush marks on your dog's coat. A chamois cloth is very absorbent. It will remove some of the excess moisture from your dog's coat if any remains. It also leaves a gentle gloss as a final touch for any grooming project. A quick brushing out and touch-up with a chamois cloth is all you need to make a short- or medium-coated dog look good for your in-laws' unannounced visits!
 
Scissoring: although scissoring will not prevent your dog from shedding, it can help neaten her appearance. Even a short-coated dog's appearance can benefit from light scissoring at the base of her ears and on her pants. It might be tempting to scissor the furnishings on the inside of your Papillon's ears, but please resist that urge. Those furnishings are there to protect her large ears from moisture and debris. Use a pair of thinning shears on the areas that you trim to prevent scissor marks from appearing on the coat.
 
Some dogs may need the hair over their paw pads trimmed, as well. Use an ordinary pair of scissors with pointed tips to carefully trim it back. You should also trim the hair between your dog's toes to prevent the toes from splaying. Both of these steps will give your dog surer footing.
 
Your short- or medium-coated dog can benefit from a few additional steps to spiff up its hairdo. These few steps can help your dog shed less and look (almost) professionally groomed!

Starting a Dog Grooming Business

You love dogs. That's a given. Your family thinks that you love your dog more than you love them--and your dog is convinced that you do! But is it enough to love dogs to want to groom them professionally? The answer is, probably not. But don't despair; your love of dogs at least can get you started.
 
A lot of work goes into becoming a groomer. Having a love of dogs is only a small part of it. You must be willing to study hard and to work hard once you graduate. If you decide to have your own business, rather than work for someone else, that workload doubles or triples, just to keep the shop doors open.
 
It's not about the Dogs
 
No matter what service you provide in the canine service industry, you must remember one simple rule: It's not about the dogs. Yes, your goal might be to make the dogs that come into your shop more comfortable, but most of those dogs would be happy to run around with the barest minimum of grooming. The owner is the one who wants the topknots, the fluffy pants, and the spiffy bandanas. The dog wants the cookie at the end of the session. Your secondary goal should be the comfort of the dog; however, your primary goal should be the happiness of the owner, who should want to come back again and again and again. The owner pays the money that keeps the doors open.
 
Learning to Groom
 
Part of starting a dog grooming business is learning how to groom. Although that sounds like stating the obvious, it's surprising how many people think that because they like brushing their pet in front of the television they can also run a grooming business.
 
In order to run a grooming business you need to be familiar with more than just a couple of clips and how to tie a bow in a dog's topknot. You must be familiar with the grooming needs of over 100 breeds of dogs. In addition, you must be able to determine which kind of shampoo and cut best serves the needs of any mixed breed dog and pet owner that comes into the shop. For these reasons, you should look for a reputable brick and mortar school at which you can get both theory and practical experience. Most schools have courses of study that last for less than a year. In addition, these schools often provide grooming equipment as part of your education or provide you with the name of a supplier with whom they may have made a discount arrangement.
 
If you can not find a good brick and mortar school in your area, you might consider taking a course through the mail or over the Internet. If you do so, then consider doing some practical training by apprenticing with a professional groomer in your area, in order to synthesize your theoretical knowledge into physical skills.
 
Selecting a Business Place
 
Even before you get your certificate, you need to decide where you will be working. You have several options after graduation, including taking an entry level position with a pet supply store, a veterinary clinic, or an established groomer, until you improve your skills. When you work for someone else, you will not make as much money; however, you will have the freedom to come and go when your shift ends. In addition, you will be able to learn more about pet grooming from an established pet groomer. If you are interested in grooming show quality dogs, then consider offering your services to a professional dog handler. Some professional handlers have enough clients for them to need a number of assistants to help groom and exercise the dogs. It is not glamorous work, but you may be able to gain experience that you could not get at other facilities.
 
Naturally, one of the options open to you is to start a grooming shop of your own. If that is your choice, contact other groomers in your general area to learn what they needed to do to get started. Using this information, you will need to develop a business plan before applying for a business loan. If you do not know how to draw up a business plan, the Small Business Administration in your area will be able to assist you.
 
Professional Associations
 
Bankers, investors, and even clients will be more willing to look at you if you are a member of a professional organization or two. You might want to consider joining one local or regional association, one state organization, and one national or international association. Two examples of these kinds of organization are the National Dog Grooming Association of America (NDGAA) and the International Professional Groomers, Inc. (IPG). You may be able to get professional insurance through these organizations, too.
 
Grooming dogs can be an enjoyable career. Do your research and take your time learning and it can be enjoyable for years to come.

Ten important myths about grooming Dogs

" Frequent baths destroy dogs" coats: Have you ever seen a show quality Afghan hound in full show coat? They are bathed and groomed frequently to grow their coats out--often as frequently as every five days or more! Once upon a time, there was truth behind this myth, which is why it still makes the rounds. Back in the early days of pet ownership, many of the amenities were lacking. Lye soap was frequently used, on humans and on dogs alike. Lye was not any better for human skin than it was for dogs' coats. As time went on, soap for both humans and dogs became milder and more formulations became available. If the proper combination of shampoo and conditioner is used and is followed by sufficient rinsing and proper grooming, you can bathe your dog as often as it is needed.
  
- Removing the hair from over the eyes of a dog will cause the light to blind him: More light than what you would think gets through that thatch of fur. Without its vision, the hairy dog would not be able to perform the duty for which it was bred, usually herding or carting, although other kinds of breeds the hair over a dog's eyes is intended to protect him from debris as he works.
  
- Shaving a long-coated dog keeps it cooler in the summer: Most dogs have an undercoat that acts as an insulator. It is positioned between the dog's skin and the guard hairs of the outer coat and traps warm or cool air to prevent the dog from extreme temperatures. In addition, most dogs don't sweat the way human beings do. They only sweat through sparsely furred areas, such as their paw pads. Dogs cool themselves by panting, not by perspiring. Dogs with thick coats that have been shaved or closely clipped may be at risk of sunburn.
  
- Letting your dog grow a long coat in the winter keeps him warmer: As with the previous myth, there would seem to be some logic to this one. However, a full-coated Bouvier de Flandres can be just as cold in winter as a Beagle can be. The truth is, it is not the length of a dog's coat that protects the dog from the cold. Rather, it is the undercoat that does it.
  
- "Hypo-Allergenic"breeds don't need grooming: The justification for this myth is that "hypo-allergenic" breeds don't shed. The truth is that non-shedding, hypo-allergenic breeds such as purebred Poodles and Bichon Frisas require just as much brushing as any other breeds, as brushing removes dead hair from the coat and prevents it from matting.
  
- Scent hounds smell bad because they are dirty dogs: Scent hounds are no dirtier than other dogs. They may give the impression of being unkempt because of their skin folds and pendulous ears and flews. One rumor has it that the hound aroma comes from rolling in offal to hide their scent while tracking. The truth is, the scent hound aroma arises from the amount of oils in the dog's skin, to protect them from the elements while working.
  
- Water grows coat: This myth might have its foundation in the grooming advice that single-coated longhaired dogs should never be groomed when dry. However, while this advice is true, it is only half of the picture. Long and luxurious coats come from proper nutrition, not water or conditioner. However, proper maintenance of a healthy coat is also necessary for that coat to achieve its full length and beauty.
  
- Groomers have a magic solution that removes mats: Groomers are limited to the same kinds of equipment, shampoos, and conditioners that the general public does. What they have in their favor is knowledge. The professional groomer knows how to apply the conditioner, knows the length of time to let it set, and knows 
  
- "Quicking"a dog's nails will cause him to bleed to death: Cutting a dog's toenails too closely to the blood supply, called the "quick" will cause him to bleed. Although it is true that the dog's nai